You can always substitute types of fish within the same main family, an oily fish for an oily fish, for example, or one flat fish for another. It’s better to use an alternative at its peak of freshness and to adjust the cooking time than to choose an imported or endangered version of a specified one. Perfect for evening meals, these fish dishes make perfect summer lunch recipes, too.

Spiced, aromatic prawns with roast pepper butter

Spiced, aromatic prawns with roast pepper butter

Spiced, aromatic prawns with roast pepper butter

Serves 4 as a starter or light lunch with bread and salad Now is the time to splash out on fat, fresh prawns or langoustines. This dish is bursting with fragrant and seasoned to perfection. Ingredients: For the red pepper butter:

2 red peppers, deseeded and sliced into cheeks2 tbsp olive oil100g salted butter2 tbsp finely chopped parsleySqueeze of lemon juice

For the prawns:

1.5kg coarse rock salt1 tsp dried chilli flakes2 tsp fennel seeds3 whole star anise1 large cinnamon stick, halvedHandful of fresh bay leaves3 rosemary sprigs12 large raw tiger prawns, shells, tails and heads on

Method:

Salt-roasted sea bass with tarragon mayonnaise

Salt-roasted sea bass with tarragon mayonnaise

Salt-roasted sea bass with tarragon mayonnaise

Serves 4 Rich, satiny homemade mayonnaise is wonderful with fresh sea bass but, if you don’t want to make your own, simply stir the tarragon leaves into a small cupful of bought mayor instead. Ingredients: For the mayonnaise:

2 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 tsp Dijon mustard 275ml very mild olive oil 2-3 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp finely chopped tarragon leaves

For the sea bass:

2 lemons; 1 sliced into rounds and 1 finely grated zest onlyHandful of herb sprigs, such as dill or fennel, parsley and chervil2 tarragon sprigs2 large sea bass (about 650g each), gutted but with scales, heads and tails left on1.5kg coarse rock salt3 eggs; 1 whole and 2 whites only1 tbsp fennel seeds

Method: It is very important to buy sea bass that has not been scaled (ask your fishmonger to leave the scales on), so that the salt doesn’t penetrate the fish skin. Baking fish in a salt crust should render the flesh perfectly steamed, fragrant from the herbs and seasoned, but not overly salty.

Sicilian style agrodolce mackerel

Sicilian style agrodolce mackerel

Sicilian style agrodolce mackerel

Serves 4 In traditional Italian cuisine, agrodolce means sour-sweet. This is a lovely way to cook oily fish and will work just as well with sardines. Ingredients:

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil4 large or 8 small very fresh mackerel fillets1 small red onion, halved and finely sliced200g cherry tomatoes1 garlic clove, sliced3 tbsp red wine vinegar2 1⁄2 tbsp caster sugar1 heaped tbsp capers, rinsed and drained2 tbsp golden raisins or sultanas2 tbsp pine nuts, toastedHandful of flat-leaf parsley leavesCrusty bread, to serve

Method:

Shellfish and John Dory bouillabaisse with saffron aioli

Shellfish and John Dory bouillabaisse with saffron aioli

Shellfish and John Dory bouillabaisse with saffron aioli

Serves 4 Less of soup, more of a seafood celebration, this dish is to be enjoyed with chilled white wine and a large napkin. Halibut or turbot would make a very fine substitute for the John Dory. Ingredients: For the saffron aïoli:

Pinch of saffron stamens2 egg yolks1 garlic clove, crushed275ml very mild olive oil2 tbsp lemon juice

For the bouillabaisse:

200g raw tiger prawns, heads and shells on2 tbsp olive oil1 fennel bulb, finely chopped2 leeks, trimmed and sliced1 fat garlic clove, finely chopped1 litre fresh fish stock400g ripe tomatoes, chopped1 tsp tomato purée200ml dry white wine1 strip pared orange zest3 tbsp pastis (optional)200g mussels, cleaned200g palourdes or other small clams, cleaned200g John Dory, skinned, boned and cubed8 scallops, shelled and cleanedExtra virgin olive oil, to drizzle2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley1⁄2 baguette, sliced and lightly toasted

Method:

Hot smoked trout salad with potatoes, peas, pea shoots and mint

Hot smoked trout salad with potatoes, peas, pea shoots and mint

Hot smoked trout salad with potatoes, peas, pea shoots and mint

Serves 4 This could hardly be simpler. It makes an ideal lunch on an early summer’s day. Ingredients: For the dressing:

1 lemon, juice and finely grated zest1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard4 tbsp extra virgin olive oilPinch of caster sugar

For the salad:

500g small new potatoesHandful of mint leaves, shredded if large, plus 1 sprig of mint200g shelled peas, fresh or frozen2 large handfuls of pea shoots (about 90g)300g hot-smoked trout fillets, flaked

Method:

Carpaccio of sea trout with lemon and pomelo dressing

Carpaccio of sea trout with lemon and pomelo dressing

Carpaccio of sea trout with lemon and pomelo dressing

Serves 4 as a starter This dish is all about texture; a mandolin will make light work of slicing the fennel and celery. Use a segmented pink grapefruit if you can’t find a pomelo. Ingredients:

200g very fresh/sushi grade sea trout, very finely slicedLarge pinch of salt1 lemon, juice only1⁄2 tsp honey2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil1 celery stick, trimmed and very finely slicedSmall handful of celery leaves, optional1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and very finely slicedSmall bunch dill or fennel tops if present, chopped1⁄2 pomelo, peeled, pith removed and flesh pulled into small pieces1 punnet salad cress, snipped

Method:

Plaice in hazelnut brown butter with samphire

Plaice in hazelnut brown butter with samphire

Plaice in hazelnut brown butter with samphire

Serves 4 Crushed new potatoes the perfect accompaniment to this dish; you’ll want something starchy to mop up all that decadent toasted butter. Ingredients:

75g shelled hazelnuts100g unsalted butter, cubed, plus an extra pat for frying1 lemon, squeeze of juice plus slices to serve4 x 150g plaice fillets1 tbsp olive oil150g samphire, washed

Method: